Motley Cru

1999 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon

February 22, 2009 · Leave a Comment

This should probably be titled “Joel Robuchon mashed potatoes and kick-ass sirloin steak” but the wine was a revelation for me.  At nearly 10 years of age, this is absolutely fantastic and, I should add, is probably 3-5 years away from its peak.  Loads of fruit with touches of secondary flavors, this is quite complex and has enough structure to keep improving.  

The sirloins were cooked with a new recipe (season both sides of the steaks with coarse sea salt, heat an oven-proof pan as hot as it’ll get, add some grapeseed oil [high smoke point], sear on each side for 1-2 minutes, then throw the whole thing in a 450 degree oven for approximately 6 minutes, or until the temperature is 125 [for medium rare], then let stand 5 minutes before serving) which worked great, especially considering the meat was only “okay” in terms of quality.  We also made the amazing Joel Robuchon mashed potatoes, and a beet salad recipe courtesy of Steve Williams.  Totally great dinner and wonderful combination with the wine.

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A bigger-than-planned effort

February 21, 2009 · Leave a Comment

I wanted to make ravioli with a machine (I made it by hand a week ago and it was so thick that it was almost inedible).  I had little idea that to whip up a little mushroom ravioli with cream sauce would take 2 hours.  And I almost sliced off my finger in the process.  Near the end of the whole preparation.  The first thing I thought (okay, technically the second after uttering an f-bomb expletive) was “oh no, I’m going to have to go to the hospital and we’re not going to be able to eat all these good looking raviolis!”  Thankfully it was “only a flesh wound” and apart from the blood and the pain we were able to continue on.  Kind of a made-up recipe (I wanted to use dried Porcinis, but couldn’t find any, so we used Shittakes and Chaterelles), it was a good chance to break-in the new Imperia pasta machine.  After using this, I can’t believe I tried to roll out pasta by hand before–and my hat is off to all those who can do it manually!  

We drank a Sine Qua Non “Covert Fingers” Pinot Noir.  While not up to the level of the Pinots made with Oregon fruit, this was the best bottle yet I’ve had of this wine.  It had some initial hints on the nose (popped and poured, no swirl) that were Syrah-like (incredibly rich, dark fruit, almost a meaty characteristic) but after a swirl or two it was pure Pinot Noir.  I can understand why those people who are into varietal “correctness” don’t appreciate wines like this, but, to me, letting varietal correctness get in the way of enjoying a superlative wine such as this one only hurt those who adhere to a textbook definition of what a wine should be.  And it went great with the mushrooms and cream sauce.

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Dinner at the Fat Duck

January 9, 2009 · Leave a Comment

TASTING MENU

NITRO-POACHED GREEN TEA AND LIME MOUSSE (2001)
ORANGE AND BEETROOT JELLY
OYSTER, PASSION FRUIT JELLY, LAVENDER
POMMERY GRAIN MUSTARD ICE CREAM, RED CABBAGE GAZPACHO
JELLY OF QUAIL, LANGOUSTINE CREAM, PARFAIT OF FOIE GRAS
OAK MOSS AND TRUFFLE TOAST
(Homage to Alain Chapel)

SNAIL PORRIDGE
Jabugo Ham, Shaved Fennel

ROAST FOIE GRAS “BENZALDEHYDE”
Almond Fluid Gel, Cherry and Chamomile

“SOUND OF THE SEA”

SALMON POACHED IN LIQUORICE GEL
Artichoke, Vanilla Mayonnaise and “Manni” Olive Oil

BALLOTINE OF ANJOU PIGEON
Black Pudding “Made to Order”, Pickling Brine and Spiced Juices    

HOT AND ICED TEA (2005)

MRS MARSHALL’S MARGARET CORNET

PINE SHERBET FOUNTAIN
(PRE-HIT)

     MANGO AND DOUGLAS FIR PUREE
Bavarois of Lychee and Mango, Blackcurrant Sorbet

PARSNIP CEREAL

NITRO-SCRAMBLED EGG AND BACON  ICE CREAM (2006)
Pain Perdu and Tea Jelly

PETITS FOURS
Carrot and Orange Lolly, Mandarin Aerated Chocolate
Apple Pie Caramel “Edible Wrapper”, Violet Tartlet

 

On January 8 we ate at the Fat Duck, Heston Blumenthal’s Michelin 3-starred restaurant.  I’ve read reviews and it seems that people either love or hate this place, and we fell squarely into the “love” category.  It was a phenomenal experience, one I hope to repeat someday.  

We brought two wines with us, 2004 Marcassin Chardonnay, Marcassin Vineyard, and 2004 Sine Qua Non Syrah Ode to E.  It may have been smartest to get the suggested wine pairing, but having a big white and a big red ended up working pretty well.  The Ode to E in particular was amazing.

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Found Wine

January 2, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Peter Andrade sent the following email this morning and I enjoyed reading it.  I try to be very disciplined with my inventory, between CellarTracker and barcodes, but still occasionally forget that the process requires my continued intervention or else it falls apart.  I can’t remember the specific wines I last lost or found, but I know I’ve had similar experiences (although I don’t remember finding quite the quality of wines Peter did!).

Happy New Year’s to you all.  I hope you all had a chance to drink some good stuff on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.  I would love to know what everyone did.  Mary and I, as is our custom, made a fabulous dinner and drank a 2001 Insignia. 

Over the last two days, I have spent nearly 5 hours restacking and cataloguing my entire wine collection.  Though I certainly do not have the biggest or best collection, nor the best tracking system, I thought I might share with you some interesting findings.  I am not sure how often the rest of you inventory your entire collection.  I do it every time I move or about once every five years.  The last full inventory was six years ago.  It is always a revelation and this time was no different.   

Lost Wine 
About a case – I thought I had them and knew where or I thought I had them and just could not place them, but alas, they are gone.  One that hurt – a 1985 Graham’s Port.  I must have drunk it with Walter. 

Wine I knew I had, but had misplaced 
About a case – I thought I had them, but did not know where, AND – I found them.  Much happiness. 

Found Wine 
No idea I had them, but am really excited.  It is almost inexplicable that I did not know I had the following bottles and “found them” in my cellar: 

1993 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet – I drank it tonight.  It was awesome.  Steve, aging the CA Cabernets, I believe, will pay off; 
1997 Arrowood Cabernet Reserve Speciale
– bought from Steve about 8 years ago.  I can’t believe I have one left; 
1997 Insignia
– no idea I had one left; 
1
998 Tenuta dell Ornellaia  Bologheri – 2001 Wine Spectator Wine of the Year – got to be kidding.  I can’t believe I lost this one; 
1999 Opus One

1999 Araujo Cabernet Eisele Vineyard

1999 Whitehall Lane Reserve Caberne
t
2003 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet

2004 Conn Valley Right Bank

and six other Shiraz’s, Pinots, and Zins – all grateful finds. 

I share this with all of you, believing, in some sense, that we all must have some “lost and hidden” gems.  If we would only look harder, or take a disciplined inventory, we would find them. 

I hope my little note encourages all of you to do a little searching and maybe you will find some things you think you might have lost forever, but are just out of sight.

Happy New Year and a votre sante

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Happy New Year

January 1, 2009 · 2 Comments

2008 ended in a flurry of activity, as work was incredibly busy the last quarter.  On top of that, I had an appendectomy a few days before Christmas.  Thankfully I was able to celebrate a bit on New Year’s Eve with a fantastic 2005 Araujo which is one of the best Cabernets I’ve ever had.  Here’s to having more time in 2009 to celebrate life with family and friends!

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When wine and food elevate each other

October 11, 2008 · Leave a Comment

We had a fairly simple meal tonight–pan fried salmon; spinach, garlic, and pine nuts sauteed in olive oil; and potato/celeraic mash.  Opened the ‘05 Sine Qua Non Over & Out (their last Pinot Noir) due to the salmon.  What a great combination.  The salmon was good by itself, and the SQN was good by itself, but together they were amazing.  In particular, the salmon really elevated the Pinot.  Without the food, the wine was a relatively typical New World Pinot Noir–rich, lush, plenty of fruit and extraction.  With the salmon, however, it showed more elegant and more complex.  It doesn’t happen very often (either we don’t try hard enough or I just suck at pairing), but boy–when a food and wine match works it’s awesome.

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Lamb and aged Cabernet

October 4, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Made rack of lamb tonight, and opened a ‘95 Whitehall Lane Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  The wine was amazingly young tasting, with loads of black currant left, and it paired quite well with the lamb.  There’s something about lamb and Cab that just works, no matter how many times I have it or how much of a wine “no duh” it is.

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October?

October 3, 2008 · Leave a Comment

I can’t believe it’s already the 3rd of October.  I know, I know, the 3rd always comes after the 2nd, and October always follows September, so how can I be surprised?  Well, each year just seems to go by faster than the year before.  I think it’s because our perspective (we’re always in the “now”) changes relative to how much history we have.  My 3-year old is just barely starting to grasp the concept of time (like last night when we got home from dinner and I peeked in on her and she said “is it time for breakfast, Daddy?”  Uh, no–it’s 10 p.m.  Go to sleep.).  I remember when I was young how long an hour seemed, and today a week or even a month can pass by without hardly realizing it.

I’ve been to Italy since the last post, and we had a bottle of the 2002 Benanti Lamoremio, on the recommendation of the waiter at Victoria Pizzeria.  This little joint, just off the Duomo in Milan, is one of my favorite pizza places anywhere.  Maybe not as good as Baffetta in Rome, but pretty close.  And the wine was very nice–I’m not a huge fan of Italian wines, but this is one that I’d seek out and purchase if I didn’t already have so much wine as it is.

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Joel Robuchon

September 21, 2008 · Leave a Comment

We ate dinner at Joel Robuchon last night with our good friends Jon and Annett Trail.  We were celebrating Jon’s 40th birthday, and this was a good place to do so.  We ate on the first floor at La Cuisine (vs. the ground floor’s Atelier) and had a very enjoyable meal.  We did the tasting menu, which Carolynn and I always appreciate because we don’t need to make any decisions and get to taste a large variety of items.  Highlights included the foie gras with parmesan foam, the langoustines, and the mullet.  Drank an ‘03 Colgin IX Estate as well as a white Burgundy recommended by the server (can’t remember the name–St. Francois?  It was an ‘06 Chablis, but, despite holding the bottle, I never really looked at the details).  The meal was expensive to be sure, but extremely satisfying, especially when shared with good friends.

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Le Petit Zinc

September 18, 2008 · Leave a Comment

This isn’t much of a wine post, but I was struck by something as we ate dinner last night at Le Petit Zinc in Paris.

For dessert we had a soufflé, and it was served with Grand Marnier. A whole bottle. Don’t misunderstand me–the whole bottle was not placed at our table with the thought that we’d drink of. If that was an assumption then I’m sure we would have gotten pre-measured portions to pour on the soufflé. We were a bit confused, since they also brought tiny little glasses, so we asked our waitress if we were supposed to drink it or pour it on the soufflé. She said “either, both, whichever you prefer.” I just can’t imagine this happening in the US, for good reason, but it was a cool experience.

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